Huascaran Ascent

Trip Overview

Huascarán or Nevado Huascarán is a mountain in the Province of Yungay -Cordillera Blanca, part of the Western Andes. At 6768 m its southern peak (Huascarán Sur) is the highest in Peru and the fourth highest in South America. Huascarán gives its name to Huascarán National Park which surrounds it, and is a popular location for trekking and mountaineering.

The Huascarán summit is in a close tie with Ecuador's Chimborazo for the honor of "farthest point from the earth's center."

Leaving our camp on the Col very early, we will cross towards the slopes below the South Summit. We will then climb a short easy angled snow couloir before traversing right, across the face, towards a small group of seracs. From here, we will join the final slope and climb south-east straight up to the summit.

Itinerary

Day 1. Lima

Arrival in Lima, reception and transfer to your hotel.

Day 2. Lima – Huaraz (Breakfast)

Transfer to the bus terminal for the 8 hour bus journey to Huaraz, set in the heart of the Peruvian Andes. Transfer to your hotel.

Day 3. Huaraz (Breakfast)

Free day.

Day 4. Pastoruri (Breakfast)

After breakfast, private transport to Pastoruri Glacier. A day of ice climbing skills including crampon techniques and ice axe work. Overnight camp on Pastoruri mountain to facilitate acclimatsation.

Day 5. Huaraz - Cebollapampa Campsite (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

Leaving Huaraz you will head north to the small town of Yungay at the foot of the Quebrada Llanganuco. Entering the Quebrada you will continue heading east into the mountains to the wide and pastoral valley between Huascarán on the south and Huandoy on the north. Camp near the trailhead at Cebollapampa. An easy day to achieve further acclimatisation.

Day 6. Acclimatisation hike to Lagoon 69 (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

Hike today for about 6 hours, surrounded by the mountains of Chacraraju, Yanpaccha and Pisco. Return to Cebollapampa basecamp.

Day 7. Cebollapampa campsite - Moraine Camp (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

After breakfast, a short trek to Pisco Base Camp at about 4400m. With good acclimatisation, you will pass the Pisco Base Camp and settle at the Moraine Camp at 4900m. Sleeping at the foot of Pisco's steep South Face in preparation for tomorrow's summit attempt.

Day 8. Morain Camp - Summit - Basecamp - Cebollapampa campsite (Breakfast, lunch & dinner)

Your summit climb of Pisco follows the occasionally narrow West Ridge. Snow and a little ice leads directly to the top. Pisco is well known for its incredible views, and with strategic view points there will be many opportunites for photographs. The close proximity of the neighbouring peaks of Huandoy and Chacraraju are astonishing. Return to Base Camp. From the Base Camp, continue the hike out to Cebollapampa campsite.

Day 9. Cebollapampa campsite – Huaraz (Breakfast)

After breakfast, return with private transport to Huaraz.

Day 10 – Day 11. Huaraz (Breakfast)

Days of rest and leisure in preparation for the Huascaran summit attempt.

Day 12. Huaraz - Musho – Basecamp (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

After breakfast, leave for Huaraz, heading north to the town of Musho, approximately two hours from Huaraz. From Musho you start the hike for about five hours until Huascaran base camp at an elevation of 4400m.

Day 13. Base Camp - Moraine Camp (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

Today, as you climb above the Base Camp, the route becomes more difficult, taking a complex path up and around huge glacially polished granite slabs. Your next camp, is the Moraine Camp 4900m, located just below the glacier.

Day 14. Morain Camp- Camp I (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

Today you will arrive at the edge of the ice itself. An additional 2 hours of glacier traversing takes you to camp I on the glacier at 5400m.

Day 15. Camp I - Camp II (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

Climb for about three hours until La Garganta (The Throat), a broad saddle between the north and south summits. As you climb through the increasingly broken glacier, you will encounter short sections of technical climbing including an ice ascent of up to 60 degrees inclination. Camp II is at 6000m.

Day 16. Huascarán Summit (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

Very early start at 3.00 am to reach the summit at approximately 11.00 am. Return to camp II.

Day 17. Camp II - Base Camp (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

Descend to Base Camp, which lasts about 6 hours.

Day 18. Base Camp - Musho – Huaraz (Breakfast and dinner)

Hiking for another three hours until Musho where your private transport will be waiting. Return to Huaraz and a celebratory dinner.

Day 19. Huaraz – Lima (Breakfast)

After breakfast, transfer to the bus terminal form the bus trip back to Lima and transfer to the airport for your connecting flight home.

 
 

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